An essential component of a shirt, the The fabric is a reliable indicator of its overall quality . It also represents the major cost of its manufacture. But not all fabrics are the same...
THE Textiles can be woven or knitted. At Howard's, they 'divide' the fabric into fibers, such as cotton, linen, or wool, which are obviously organic fabrics. This process of separate the fibers It's called spinning . If he is woven , the textile forms a fabric . Otherwise, it forms a material used for padding and decoration.
Our fabrics are of natural (organic) origin , meaning they come from plant sources . To tell you a little more:
- Wool : of animal origin , it is obtained from the fleece of sheep. This material stands out for its softness and its lightness , but also comfort and the ability to keep you warm .
- Silk : also of animal origin , silk comes from the cocoon produced by the caterpillar of the mulberry silkworm, commonly known as the silkworm .
- Cotton : of plant origin , cotton is a fiber that covers the seeds of the cotton plant . Very soft to the touch, it is generally comfortable to wear and boasts good strength and flexibility. It tends to wrinkle easily and is not a good insulator.
- Linen : Linen is a textile material extracted from the fibers of the plant of the same name. This very durable , plant-based material has high absorbency and a certain coolness to the touch, making it ideal for summer.
The history of fabrics
Over the course of historical developments, spinning mills have developed a A multitude of fabrics , with varying properties and appearances. It is therefore important to know the main categories in order to choose them wisely according to your needs. usage .
The manufacture of a thread requires the shelling and the cleaning of the raw material (ginning), the loosening and the parallelization fibers (carding, combing) and finally the spinning mill .
The creation of a yarn is a series of steps depending on the thread quality. First of all, several filaments are extracted from tow And gathered into a strand ; this same strand is wound into thread by twisting , which thread is wound onto a reel to be woven .
We will analyze the fabrics according to their weaving technique: the armor.
'Web' armor
"Canvas" armors are distinguished by... warp threads (vertical) raised alternately to allow the passage of weft threads (horizontal). The main tissues resulting from this process are the poplin , the thread-by-thread , Oxford , the Chambray , the flax , the dobby and the seersucker .
Diagram of a plain weave
THE warp thread (black) passes over a weft thread (blue), then below the next one, and so on.
'Twill' armor
The so-called "twill" weave is characterized by a weft thread which passes under one or more warp threads. For the warp, the process is shifted with each frame pass.
The pattern is at an angle and allows us to identify all the tissues in this family as THE twill , the chevron or the denim .
Diagram of a twill weave
The warp thread (black) passes under a weft thread (blue), then over the next two or three warp threads, and so on.
The last type of armor in existence is the satin .
A weft thread pass above a warp thread Then below the three or the next four warp threads.
This technique creates a particularly shiny appearance but satin fabrics are fragile The loose threads can be attached. Since satin is rarely used in men's shirtmaking, we will not discuss it further.
'Satin' armor
Diagram of a satin weave
THE weft thread (blue) pass above of a warp thread (black), then below the next three or four warp threads, and so on.
