Our sartorial shirts: cut-away and pin-collar collars
Fabrics, collars, cuffs, buttons and other finishes have been studied with care to reach the highest level of our know-how .
Before getting into the topic, the whole team would like to extend a warm thank you. Your feedback and ideas have been very important to us.
The new passes
Opening, height and length of the tips, requested up to 8 prototypes by pass to achieve our requirements.
The cut-away collar
Common in Italy , the cut-away collar is an excellent alternative to the Italian collar . Also rare how elegant , its tips are stretched backwards and provide a perfect outfit , even without a tie.
Its opening frees the face and highlights the ties tied on this collar for everyday use.
The pin-collar collar
Inspired by the 20s, the pin-collar is a response to the famous « casual friday » . It’s time for “Dress up Monday” and tie on!
Just like the cut-away "round", the pin-collar enjoys a real stylistic bias .
Not found in conventional ready-to-wear collections, this collar is embellished with hand-sewn perforations in our workshops.
Offering a clean look , pin-collar collars allow you to hold your ties perfectly . Vary with a safety pin.
The construction
Our choice of fabrics is the result of a close collaboration with the English weaver Thomas Mason . A partnership nourished by numerous exchanges resulting in a rich selection and without compromise.
So, the range of fabrics " Journey » appeared as an obvious choice. Developed by the spinning mill's textile engineers, these fabrics are initially planned for the trip for the sake of longevity and of ease of maintenance , qualities that are just as sought after on a daily basis.
Awarded by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists , the fabrics are extremely soft but also " wrinckle resistant ", literally wrinkle resistant .
Ended up in Switzerland where fresh water sources are extremely pure , the range withstands 80 washes without any problem : the colors remain intact.
THE side seams , body and along the sleeve, are "English" mounted . This involves fold the fabric to reveal only one seam.
Known for its comfort , this complex assembly offers seams Also fines that discreet . A paradoxical subtlety: the seams are noted for their discretion !
THE collar stand , in contact with the neck, is entirely canvassed (free-mounted). This traditional assembly offers a comfort and a lightness Who avoids any irritation .
The flap, the visible part of the collar, has been redesigned and worked in a new interlining to achieve the ideal threshold between flexibility and rigidity .
In the construction process, the whales are still integrated (technique recognized for 18 years) and are stitched into the seams graded in 8 points/cm.
Sartorial finishes
Reinforcement swallows
Reinforcement at the meeting point from the front and back of the shirt , this yoke is an area of historical signature for blouses.
Cut into hexagons in twill then Hand-assembled , our swallows are then decorated with daisies hand-embroidered silver, the signature of our sartorial products.
The buttons
Particularly thick and hand-hollowed in a pure mother-of-pearl coming from Australia, our buttons fit into the classification " Mother of Pearl » : a category of mother-of-pearl offering unique reflections .
Wide of 18mm , our buttons are easy to button and are slightly hollowed : this relief allows the wire to avoid contact with washing machine drums.
This technique coupled with sewing " Chicken Zampa ", your button will not fall off!
After two years of work, we are convinced that the passes cut-away and pin-collar are the perfect alchemy between know-how and style .
I'll let you discover them without further delay.