Howard's PARIS: the atypical journey of a perfectionist
Howard's: Testing ties, a MTM business shirt and a casual shirt
Do you know my biggest fear about a brand?
It's not being able to properly explain to you how it's different from what I've tested before. That's exactly what I was afraid of with Howard's, but my doubts quickly dissipated.
If it is a brand with a slightly more high-end niche than what we are used to testing, it is also surely the most accomplished brand that I have seen, with finishes of rare quality and a real obsession with detail.
HOWARD'S: THE STORY OF AN ULTRA DEMANDING BRAND
I really enjoyed testing Howard's, because almost everything there is atypical. We find the obsession with detail by its creator on each of its products.
Its creator, Frédéric Costa, has a particularly original career path (which can also be found in this interview) that I will quickly summarize for you. At the age of 16, he left school to join BMW as a mechanic, then he joined Ferrari.
It was at this precise moment that Frédéric discovered a new passion: he could not find a satisfactory tie (a burgundy with white polka dots) for his interviews at the prestigious company and remained frustrated by this blockage. His frustration was such that even after getting the job at Ferrari, he decided to turn it down to embark on the new adventure of ties with Howard's at the age of 19.
The brand was founded at a time when Weston and Wicket were very well known, so he also adopted an English name for the brand (which also reassured customers, which is very useful when you launch your brand at 19 years old).
This one stands out not only on shirts, but also on ties on which we probably find some of the best know-how in Paris.
There 7-fold tie , a good area of expression when you are meticulous about details.
THE shirts , as for them, are made in a small, confidential French workshop, which therefore allows us to offer finishes that I had never encountered before on a shirt (nothing to do with C2S, even if the high-end of this factory also remains extremely impressive).
Fred was also able to maintain a relationship of trust with this workshop, from which he demanded over the years ever more advanced and qualitative details and finishes, which are therefore found almost nowhere else (and which make a big difference, like the buttonhole with the interlining).
TIE TEST FOR THE PERFECT BUSINESS OUTFIT
First of all, you should know that Howard's ties are hand-made in Paris in one of the last remaining workshops in the capital. This is not surprising when you know its creator, he leaves nothing to chance and always seeks the best for his products. Needless to say, they are all made of 100% silk (for the models we are presenting to you because Howard's also offers a whole range of different materials for its materials including seersucker). They are generally 150 cm long and 8 cm wide (an ideal width that will suit all body types). Finally, to conclude, the fabrics all come from England of course.
Howard's is just as sharp with its ties as it is with its shirts (as with all its different product lines). For the occasion (namely the creation of our new perfect business attire) we have asked it to prepare a special collection for us that will only be available to those who take the outfit.
These are the two printed silk ties (the burgundy red with polka dots and the blue with a floral pattern). As for the other two, the silk has received a special treatment on its texture. These are therefore two ties in silk grenadine (navy blue and burgundy) which will also be available.
So we offer 4 different models in the perfect business outfit.
2 PRINTED SILK MODELS
A blue silk with floral print offering different shades of lighter blue in the pattern and white and another model in burgundy red silk printed with white polka dots. On these models it is mainly the pattern that is interesting. They will add a touch of character to your outfits (especially if they are plain). The patterns are particularly successful and balanced. Thus, they do not weigh on the tie (Patterns are sometimes scary when they are too invasive on the tie).
2 MODELS IN SILK GRENADINE
On these two models it is the work of the texture that is more interesting (rather than the work of the patterns on the two models presented above). As you notice on the photos, there is no need to add a pattern on the silk grenadine for it to breathe presence and character.
FABRICS
"Made in England", Howard's ties have a beautiful fabric density. This allows you to obtain beautiful tie knots that hold up well all day long. In addition, this allows you to easily obtain a pretty drop at the end of the knot that will be easy to deepen to mark a beautiful volume and relief on your tie.
A detail that is not insignificant since it was Brummel himself (the founding father of dandyism) who made wearing a tie more complex. It was by proudly displaying sophisticated tie knots that dandies distinguished themselves at court and in high society salons.
SILK GRENADINE
Lightweight, it is very pleasant to handle and has a softer feel than its counterpart. Silk grenadine is a very particular construction of the tie that requires a high level of expertise that only a few workshops can really carry out. It is a delicate and sophisticated work that results from the enrichment of a centuries-old artisanal practice.
It is designed on old looms whose first works date back to the 19th century. These machines are found mainly in Europe and there are a very small number that continue to work. This is partly why it is rare to find them. The work of silk grenadine is therefore truly the prerogative of a beautiful tie brand.
These very old machines therefore have a very slow productivity compared to the means of production of contemporary industry. On average, a classic machine produces between 10 to 20 meters of fabric per day at best. This is the second reason why it is rarer to find them.
Grenadine (from the Italian "garza") has a finer texture and therefore a bit transparent in appearance. It must therefore be accompanied by matching interlinings for each different tone to avoid possible conflicts between the colors (which would ruin the work).
Among the silk grenadines , there are two different categories: the large mesh (Garza Grossa) and the fine mesh (garza fina). At Jamais Vulgaire we have opted for fine mesh models which seem to us more coherent in a formal register.
THE FINISHES
It should be noted that his ties offer some hand-made finishes (such as the closing flies), the ease thread is looped (thus allowing the fabric to return to its place after a day of wear). The linings are made of the same fabric as the tie (no nylon or polyester) and the interlinings are 100% wool and are cut in a particular way to prevent the tie from twisting (so that it does not get damaged). Howard's signs his creations in a subtle way on several points.
THE LINING
The lining of Howard's ties is always particularly neat. To mark our special collection, the lining is decorated with a micro Paisley pattern on a navy blue background.
Howards' signature is also recognizable on the stop stitch. It is always the same color as the tie but a tone below! Which creates a slight contrast and makes the detail particularly subtle. That said, it also happens that the stop stitch contrasts more sharply and comes in different colors depending on its models.
STYLE TIPS
For the more sartorial among us, subtle pattern plays will be quite appropriate on caviar, Prince of Wales or striped faux plain suits. You will find just below a proposal for a sartorial composition that plays with patterns (the stripes of the shirt and the caviar faux plain of the suit). The idea is that from afar only the tie sets you apart and then once in contact it is the entire outfit that asserts your style.
Our second composition is halfway between a refined outfit and a sartorial outfit. It is ideal for those who want to learn how to wear patterns without taking risks. The plain sky blue of the shirt softens the white polka dots of the red tie. In addition, the contrast of colors is really more interesting than with a white shirt. The density of the fabric allows for very pretty knots and a beautiful drop at the end. Thus giving relief and volume thanks to natural light.
Here is another outfit in a little more blended. The faux plain allows to enhance the character of the shirt without attracting too much attention. Indeed, the goal is rather to highlight the texture of the silk grenadine. A texture that takes on even more interest as we worked it with a beautiful drop to offer depth and a more intense play of light.
Here is a last example of compositions, it is the wisest of all the outfits. The white offers a strong contrast with the much darker navy blue of the grenadine and the gray caviar micro pattern. This is probably the example where the tie is most highlighted in relation to the outfit. Everything is refined and the contrast is very high, thus drawing attention to the piece that interests us in this test. Thus highlighting all the textured work that the grenadine offers.
You should know that this kind of composition, which seems very simple, does not work with plain ties that lack character (unlike grenadine, flannel, seersucker, knitwear, etc.). With a plain silk tie, the result becomes bland because you will focus the eye on a piece that is too smooth.
HOWARD'S TIE TEST CONCLUSION
Ultra-high-tech materials, very neat finishes and all produced in a renowned workshop in Paris (one of the last in the capital). It's quite simple, Howard's is a reference in the capital and we couldn't find better in terms of quality in this price range (the equivalent range of our model sells for €79 each in its store) for the perfect business outfit. You will therefore have the choice between very refined ties in silk grenadine or more sartorial ties in printed silk with a pattern.
THE HOWARD'S SHIRT RANGE
FABRICS
Howard's first offers a ready-to-wear range with a fairly impressive variety of fabrics.
The casual range is extremely extensive and we find large , very textured flannels and with subtle patterns that I have not yet seen elsewhere.
The variety of flannel colors is quite representative of the collection.
Formal shirts are not left out: there is Thomas Mason fabric and in particular the Journey range. This is the Easy Iron version from Thomas Mason: I am always a little skeptical about these ranges: they add a chemical layer (often starch) which can sometimes suffocate the cotton and make it more brittle and less durable. We will see that here this is not the case and that we reach an excellent compromise.
I am one of the few men who enjoys ironing my shirts and treats this moment as a ritual carried out calmly and meticulously. On the other hand, one can also necessarily understand that it is a chore: this is indeed the case for 65% of men, while there is only 17% of the offer that includes this function.
Thomas Mason (an ancestral English spinning mill since 1750) has recently released a Journey range without the usual flaws of non-iron ranges: it does not give a stiff and brittle fabric and does not scratch, thanks to a softer and less aggressive treatment which respects the natural fiber of the cotton.
The usual treatment is a bath with multiple chemicals that the shirt receives before sale, the ingredients of which are ultra aggressive.
Here, rather than bathing the entire shirt in a treatment, it is in the spinning mill that we will treat the fabric, before it is sewn to make a shirt, with a slower and softer formula: we therefore obtain a material that remains breathable, with an ultra soft touch.
This fabric has also been awarded by the AATCC: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.
VARIETY OF PASSES
Howard's also offers a wide variety of collars, each of which has been intelligently modernized: pin collars, Italian collars, semi-cutaway collars and buttoned collars. A total of 4 collars.
I was able to test the pin collar which I was very surprised by the difference, I'll tell you more about the shirt test below.
I was quite surprised because I visualized the pin collar a bit like in Boardwalk Empire: very high and with an extremely small gap between the panels.
Fred decided to make a more wearable version, less high and with a bigger gap. The explanation behind this choice is quite simple: in the 20s and 30s, people used to wear extremely flashy patterned ties: so there was no need to show a lot of it and a normal shirt gap would have given an impression of too much.
Nowadays, men prefer to wear plain but textured ties: this is a much more subtle originality than ultra-colorful patterns. We can therefore allow ourselves to show a larger part of it without overloading the outfit, and therefore wear them with a collar whose panels are a little more spread apart.
It's an update and a little history lesson that I really appreciated in any case.
HOWARD'S SHIRTS REVIEW
FINISHES
I must say that I have rarely seen a buttonhole that looked so strong: this is explained by a lining, which we usually never see in this place and which ensures a nice fall, in addition to necessarily reinforcing the buttonholes which are not likely to gape any time soon.
The rest of the finishes are up to par with a shirt of this range: Zampa di Gallina, with reinforcement swallows and English seams galore, as well as seams of 8 to 9 stitches per centimeter. (I have rarely seen such finesse).
The buttons are made of Mother of Pearl (premium Australian mother-of-pearl): they combine both finesse and solidity.
THE MATTER
I have rarely felt so much like I was wearing a luxurious fabric: the first wear was really surprising since it is both thick and very rigid. It is almost as if I was wearing raw selvedge jeans that would mold to the shape of my shoulders.
I think this is easily my most fitted shirt, and it shows in the photos when you look at how well it hugs the curve of the back. However, it is also very fitted in the front, so much so that it can become slightly uncomfortable after a heavy meal.
STYLE TIPS
A shirt with such a marked formal identity is worn with clothes of a simple structure like a two-button jacket (a double-breasted jacket would immediately be too much in my opinion), a simple four-in-hand tie knot (a Windsor or even a half Windsor would be too bulky for this collar format). We can accompany the whole thing with a plain pocket square (or with a contrasting border) with a square fold. Double buckles at the bottom can possibly echo this slightly original structure.
This collar belongs to the dressy (or even very dressy) formal register but will not be suitable for work formals. (I will have to write an article to clearly differentiate formal outfits for ceremonies and other very dressy occasions and office formals, which are much more rigid and clearly less original).
We have already talked about the gap between the panels, the height of the collar is also a good compromise and makes this collar wearable even if you have a small neck.
So here, I chose a very simple two-button Les Francs Tireurs suit, as well as Francs Tireurs accessories (a tie and a pocket square). From a structural point of view, the outfit is dressed up but remains sensible (the seriousness of the two-button jacket slightly tones down the eccentricity of the pin collar). It stands out more in the patterns and colors: to balance it out, we made a reversed double four-in-hand knot which gives a fairly fine knot.
CONCLUSION
Formal rating: 10/10 (navy blue stripes and pin collar, it's hard to be more dressy)
Casual rating: 0/10 (probably the least casual shirt in the world, it's not the usual thing at all)
Risk taking: 4/10 (you still have to go for the pin collar, even if it ultimately works well in a simple and balanced outfit).
We are close to 200 euros with this custom-made shirt, but we are really very very close to perfection both in terms of finishes and fabrics. It is difficult to talk about value for money given that no other brand offers this level of finishes yet.
You can read more about Howard's bespoke service here.
THE CASUAL SHIRT
This is the fitted blue cotton flannel shirt with houndstooth pattern worn by PA, the photographer of JamaisVulgaire. It is available here.
The only small black point on the cuts and the sizing: nothing below size 37.
FINISHES
We remain on the same quality of finishes: mother of Pearl buttons with Zampa di Gallina stitching, English seams and a canvassed collar.
It is very pleasant to see such fine seams which allow this characterful material to express itself well and appreciate the density of its details.
The Italian collar is well suited to this type of casual shirt: it is not completely soft and has just the right amount of rigidity to ensure good support, but without resembling the ultra-starched collars of formal shirts which do not go at all with the casual register.
THE MATTER
I too often associated flannel with a speckled look like a lumberjack plaid shirt, but too rarely with a very fine and subtle pattern that was found more for me on textures like oxford. This extremely subtle houndstooth easily brings a faux plain impression to the shirt.
test-howards-casual-shirt-material
It's also the light capture that is quite amazing: we shot here a little before nightfall (around 5 p.m.) and the result changes completely. test-howards-chemise-casual-matiere-2
STYLE TIPS
I would avoid a completely casual style even if it is flannel: we are here on a slightly more precious piece with much more subtle patterns. We will therefore especially avoid integrating it into a workwear style made of a work jacket or boots.
Flannel also makes it too rough a shirt to integrate it into a real formal. So we would not wear it with a suit either.
The right style for this shirt would be casual chic with a touch of Gentleman Farmer: you can wear it with trousers with a light Prince of Wales pattern that complements the material, and brown double buckle derbies that add a light Gentleman Farmer touch.
Here it is worn with an El Ganso overcoat and Dockers pants:
CONCLUSION
Formal register: 0/10 (this is not the goal)
Casual register: 10/10 (I have rarely seen such a precise and detailed pattern on a material like flannel)
Risk taking: 3/10 (the most appropriate Gentleman Farmer register is not necessarily the easiest to identify)
Value for money: 9/10
We are looking at a quality of materials and finishes that are once again quite unobtainable otherwise (in any case in French brands): I have rarely seen this finesse of sewing and this type of buttoning on a casual shirt.